How to Fix the Fashion Calendar? Resort Offers a Clue or Two

Carolina Herrera Resort ’18

I was going to count how many designers showed collections for Resort 2018 because the number seemed overwhelming compared to years past, but I was underestimating how overwhelming that number actually is — after four minutes and a three-digit count that promised no finale, I gave up. I was scrolling through Vogue Runway and genuinely felt like I had slept on an entire season of shows. Then it occurred to me that I kind of did.

It used to be that only a limited number of designers would show during Resort and, back then, the collections were never feature-length (more than, let’s say, 35 looks). If anything, they felt like capsules. But what we’re sitting on now is a full-blown fashion season in which a far more comprehensive slew of designers are participating. On the one hand, I think it’s great: it burgeons in June when the weather is getting nicer and fashion denizens are pulling themselves out of hibernation. That we’re wearing warm-weather clothing and looking at warm-weather clothing (even though we won’t be able to have it for another six or so months) seems right in a way that a lot of what is happening within the fashion cycle does not.

When I was at Rosie Assoulin’s presentation, walking among knit-sweater suits and floral dresses (but also heavyweight coats and dainty sandals), it occurred to me that Resort can replace both Spring and Fall. It has it all: the warm-weather wears, the cold-weather wears and the magical stuff that sits inside the sandwich, which we end up wearing more than anything else in our wardrobes. So why don’t we — the fashion establishment — do that? Just present a collection of this nature twice a year. Forgo the seasons that occur in September/October and February/March; show in June and January instead, condense the four seasons to two (it is only a matter of time before Pre-Fall becomes the same, exhaustive spectacle that Resort has become), have these clothes ship to retailers when they are actually supposed to be worn as opposed to three months before and chill the fuck out on markdowns. I love a sale as much as the next deal-monger, but you know what I love more? Seeing great talent actually maintain a chance at survival in this increasingly cutthroat and quite frankly nonsensical climate. Added bonus: less waste.

I know that retailers demand more, citing consumer appetite, but maybe if we work smarter, not harder, and become a bit more calculated about what we ship and when we ship it, designers could get away without burning themselves out — designing enough to satisfy their creative ids, but leaving enough room to feel excitement when they think about the next collection. I don’t know. Just a thought. In the meantime, there’s a complete guide to the very best (and very subjectively ranked) collections from Resort 2018 in the slideshow below.

Photos via Vogue Runway

Leandra M. Cohen

Leandra M. Cohen is the founder of Man Repeller.

More from Archive